Smoke Gets in Your Eyes

Since 2000, these dedicated men of the Holy Name Society take to the kitchen to throw a pasta fest for the parishioners of St. Christopher, a school in the Grant City section of Staten Island. Spearheaded by Chef Mario, a hundred pounds of macaroni graced with sauces, vegetables, salads, and meatballs, are doled out during a day-long event.

By the night’s end, the kitchen is an oily, tomatoey, cheesy mess—the point that kicks off happy hour. It's time to sip some beer and imbibe of the red grape. Cigars begin to emerge from pockets. The wrap-up ritual of libation and smoke invariably marks a day of success.